Night Train Robbers

Let me preface this by saying I rode 2nd class sleeper trains throughout Thailand with no problems, in relative comfort. They were never more than 2 bunks tall, with the bunks running lengthways along the train and a wide sort of aisle down the middle and privacy curtains for every bunk. Although there was no a/c in 2nd class there were fans and good air circulation so it was never too hot.
What a nightmare the Italian/French night train was. We were stacked in teency compartments, 3 bunks tall, 6 bunks per compartment. Crowded doesn't begin to describe it. Once we were all bedded down, it was insufferably hot. There was supposed to be air conditioning but it wasn't working. However, it was understood we mustn't open the compartment door but leave it locked, as unsavoury sorts of people got on the train and robbed open compartments between stops. It wasn't understood by everyone in our compartment though, as in the middle of the night while everyone else slept, one man decided he just couldn't sleep in this heat and opened the door. Sure enough, mom's purse containing her passport, credit card, pda etc was quietly taken, not waking anyone. That was it, we figured, end of vacation. What an idiot this man was, we all thought... We explained the situation to the highly indifferent police who were passing by, and then to a female train agent, who luckily spoke French. Much more luck with her and we were told to wait in our compartment while they searched for it. Amazingly, about an hour later, this agent knocked on our door holding up the bag, grinning happily. They had actually caught the thief redhanded. Although there had been stops,he had felt confident enough to stay on the train. Nothing (!) was missing except 20 CAD my mom realized later. So, so lucky. No one could believe the luck.
So we are surviving Rome. We visited so much today I won't describe it now. Italy seems to be a vegetarian's heaven compared to France, so many veggie dishes. Not just steak-frites! Keep fingers crossed for us, and I'll keep you posted on the continuation later. ciao, jess